Katie Kenny says farewell to Wi-Fi and gears up for an eco-friendly journey through northern Palawan’s pristine karst landscapes and aqua blue waters. Photos by Chris Place and Katie Kenny.
The island province of Palawan has managed so far to escape the grasp of tourism and is therefore often referred to as the Philippines’ “last frontier:” Most of the fishing province is unapologetically without Wi-Fi, banks or credit card machines. It’s not for everyone. But as one of the most beautiful island chains in Asia, Palawan welcomes a mix of travelers, from backpackers to those who like a bit of pampering, wreck divers to adventure newbs, motorcyclists to boat-trippers. Once you’ve experienced the Palawan way of life, you’ll find it hard to leave that blissful simplicity behind.
Boat to Basics
If you want to see the real Palawan, sign up for an expedition with Tao Philippines (www.taophilippines.com). Filipino Eddie Brock from northern Philippines and Briton Jack Foottit originally set up expeditions in 2006 as a way for travelers to journey to remote islands that are completely void of tourism.
The five-day open-group expedition (PHP25,000 ($4,332)) travels between the regions of Coron and El Nido, stopping at different community-owned base camps along the way. You island-hop, snorkel, drink a lot of rum and beer—possibly drunkenly sing old-school karaoke all night if there’s a typhoon—and eat amazingly fresh and delicious organic seafood.
Breakfast on the boat
There’s another side to it as well: The villagers are fishermen at heart but with the quantity of fish declining, the Tao team is arming the communities with more sustainable practices, such as organic farming and building with bamboo.
A bamboo structure in the works at Tao’s organic farm
A tour with Jack around the Tao farm
Spherical Image – RICOH THETA: Chilling at one of the @TaoPhilippines base camps
TIP: When booking, email the Tao office (info@taophilippines.com) early, as it takes a while for them to respond due to limited internet access. Let them know a bit about who you are and why you want to join the adventure.
Our Tao family: crew and fellow backpackers
Dive, Dive, Dive
Palawan is a diver’s paradise, and the most famous spots are the northernmost Busuanga and Coron islands. With a number of caves hidden at the end of underwater tunnels, gorgeous reefs full of marine life and numerous sunken Japanese WWII warships sprinkled throughout the two islands, it’s easy to see why Palawan is still one of the world’s top diving destinations.
View from the Tower Suite (our favorite of all the rooms)
Island-hopping
Spherical Image – RICOH THETA: A 360 view of the infinity pool at Al Faro resort in Busuanga.
One quirky and secluded little bed-and-breakfast which offers a romantic experience and access to everything on offer is Al Faro (Rooms from PHP3,200 ($554). D’Pearl Bay, Busuanga, Palawan, Philippines, (+63) 917-532-0401, http://www.alfaropalawan.com). Perched at the top of a hill overlooking the bay is a Gaudi-esque, lighthouse-inspired spot with an infinity pool, tasty food and numerous day trips on offer. Aside from diving, visitors can island-hop on their own private boat, snorkel with wild sea turtles, go horseback riding, fishing or just relax in one of the most calm and pristine parts of Asia.
Our happy corned beef, fried eggs and garlic rice breakfast at Al Faro
TIP: Don’t try to pack too much in if you’re in Busuanga, as it is the perfect place to simply unwind.
A guard house in D’Pearl Bay
Spherical Image – RICOH THETA: Island-hopping in Busuanga on the way back to Al Faro.
Untouched Landscape and Wildlife
Palawan province is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, which means sustainable development is encouraged to create a balance between the community and the natural surroundings. It may seem difficult to imagine, with commercial Cebu only an hour away by plane. But when you’re in a classic Filipino outrigger paraw approaching a posh eco-friendly resort nestled in an untouched limestone cliff—you quickly realize there’s something different about this place.
Heading to El Nido Town
A Palawan ice cream man
El Nido Resorts (rooms from PHP18,000 ($3,257), http://www.elnidoresorts.com) is a group of eco-luxury private island resorts in El Nido and Taytay in the northern part of Palawan’s mainland. While exercising a commitment to sustainability and nature, each of the four resorts provides a great home base for all types of holiday seekers: total luxury, adventure, exploration or wellness. While you’re there you can learn about the local environment during the daily “Be Green” cocktail hour, take day trips to the other resorts, private beach clubs and popular nearby islands, kayak to hidden caves, snorkel, scuba dive and relax at the spa.
Approaching El Nido Resort’s Lagen Island
You need a little El Nido in your life
Spherical Image – RICOH THETA: Amazing time at El Nido Resorts
TIP: If you have money to spend, book a first or last night at El Nido Resorts to make use of the private airport, which has daily direct flights from Manila.
A lovely picnic on the beach at one of El Nido Resort’s beach clubs
Post from RICOH THETA. – Spherical Image – RICOH THETA
Getting There
Both Cebu Pacific (from $2,462) and Philippine Airlines (from $2,174) fly daily from Hong Kong to Busuanga island, via Manila. It’s two hours to Manila, and then an extra hour to Palawan.
This travel feature was originally written for HK Magazine on April 2, 2015.
Katie Kenny 