Katie Kenny packs a weekender bag and heads to the quiet seaside town of Hua Hin for seafood street eats, a hillside vineyard and a breathtaking temple nestled in a sundrenched cave.
The Thai beach resort of Hua Hin rose to prominence as a weekend escape for Bangkok’s royal family and high society types. Back in 1926 King Rama VI built the royal summer palace a few kilometers north of the main part of town, which drew in the upper class of Bangkok in droves. Still a weekend favorite for residents of the capital, they’re now joined by wealthy retired expats and tourists looking for a simpler retreat away from the typical Thai beach party scene.
Lots of public transport makes it easy to get around, and there’s an international range of shops and cafes. Locals and foreign residents spend their days playing golf and kitesurfing—Hua Hin is a popular place to learn the sport due to the area’s wide beach and constant wind. But sport isn’t the only draw: a handful of outdoorsy, boozy and cultural adventures are just a short ride away.
Spelunking for Newbies
Hua Hin is a place of hidden gems. The first surprising find is the Phraya Nakhon cave, located in the Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park. The beautiful cave houses the Kuha Karuhas pavilion, built in 1890. Aim to get there as early as possible to see the light that streams in from the collapsed roof of the cave, forming a spotlight around the delicate religious structure. The size of this cave may not impress adventure freaks, but those who are new to the game should not miss this excursion. Charge your camera!
Getting There: You have two choices when journeying to the cave: first, take either a private car or a tuk tuk. Then either hike up the mountain or take a speed boat. We chose the speed boat, which toured us around a squid fishing village and a handful of tiny nearby islands (including the eponymous “Monkey Island”) before dropping us at the beach along the national park.
HK Tip: The entrance fee is THB200 ($48) per person, which is exceptionally reasonable until a pushy guide tries to tag along—say no and head straight down the path yourself. You’ll hike up a gentle hill for roughly 30-40 minutes before coming to the mouth of the cave. Head back the same way and your boat will be waiting for you on the beach.
Hilltop Happy Hour
Picture this: a perfect afternoon spent at an alfresco restaurant overlooking a picturesque vineyard—in Thailand. Hua Hin Hills Vineyard (1 Moo 9, Baan Khork Chang Patana, Nong Plup, (+66) 81-701-0444, huahinhills.com)—located 45km west of Hua Hin town center—makes over 20 varietals including Cab Sauv, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscat, under the award-winning Monsoon Valley Wine label. If you have the time, Hua Hin Hills offers an entire day’s worth of activities such as jeep-driven tasting tours around 560 acres, bottle painting and mountain biking. But the main draw is definitely the treehouse-looking Sala Wine Bar & Bistro. Take your pick of fine-dine international cuisines from the menu—each item comes with a wine pairing recommendation—or go for one of the wine and tapas tasting menus, which range from THB650 ($155) to THB1,730 ($413).
HK Tip: Hua Hin has excellent seafood, but if you’re a shameless meat eater in need of a fix, then don’t miss out on the red meat dishes at Sala. Highlights include the spicy beef salad with lemongrass, Thai herbs and red grapes as well as the herb-encrusted rack of lamb with a grape and apple chutney. Despite the red meat, we’d argue that the crisp white wines are a better choice than the reds.
Getting There: You can arrange a car from your hotel, or book a spot on the Hua Hin Hills shuttle by calling or emailing ahead of time ((+66) 81-701-0222, info@huahinhills.com). The pick-up point is located at Villa Market (218/1-4 Petchkasem Rd.) in the main part of town, and the ride costs THB300 ($72) per person.
Same Same But Different
I know what you’re thinking; seen one night market and you’ve seen them all. And yes, the trinkets on sale at the numerous stalls and snack carts at Hua Hin’s Night Market are the same tourist-friendly gifts and treats found in its Koh Samui and Phuket counterparts. But it would be hard to argue with a delicious seafood dinner served up street dining-style. There aren’t that many bars around for a wild night out, so you’ll find most tourists spending all night at the market with a table full of frosty Chang beers and good eats.
HK Tip: You can’t go wrong with Hua Hin’s seafood selection—especially the squid. Plates and plates of grilled tiger prawns, spiky lobsters, crab curries and calamari alongside buckets of beer: we were there every night.
Where to Stay
The Evason Hua Hin takes you out of the busy streets of Hua Hin town center and situates you 20 minutes south down the beach. With reasonably priced spa treatments, an affordable range of activities such as yoga, tennis, tai chi and Thai boxing, you could spend entire days at the hotel. But with shuttle services and private cars available for hire, you won’t miss out on exploring everything Hua Hin has to offer.
From $839. 9 Moo 5 Paknampran Beach, Pranburi, (+66) 3263-2111, sixsenses.com.
Getting There
Travel agency Flight Centre (49 Caine Rd., Central, 2830-2868, flightcentre.com.hk) offers affordable flights and packages. A one-on-one consultation with their agents is a good way to score a great package.
This travel feature was originally written for HK Magazine on June 12, 2014.
Katie Kenny 
Such pleasing pics! :))
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